The Energedry ELE 6400 Revolutionized the Restoration Industry

Now the Energedry Eliminator Is the Next Generation Heater

With the Energedry Eliminator you will get the job done fast.  Drying with this system, dehumidification is not needed in most cases, but can be added in some drying situations for even faster drying.

 

It's a fact of drying that warmer air can hold more water vapor. At 70°F, air can hold twice the moisture of air at 50°F. This particular difference of twenty degrees means that you can evaporate twice the moisture from structural materials. Use the Energedry Eliminator to create "thirsty" air with greater moisture-carrying capacity. The Energedry Eliminator is the most powerful Industry specific electric heat drying system that is totally self-contained and thermostatically controlled. Custom ramp up power feature allows for less energy consumption without compromising performance. Dry walls, carpet, wood floors, cabinets, etc... with ease.

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Examples of Focus Drying Using the Eliminator

Energedry  Eliminator Series- Thermal Evaporative Accelerator
• Outperform Dehumidifiers 100% of the time when used with the VapairVent Ventilation System • Works on 115v circuit or 230v splitter with “Ramp Up” power feature that keeps more circuits available for airmovers • up to 96F temperature rise capability allow for proper temperature control in positive, neutral or negative pressures • Digital thermostat w/12’ cable measures temperatures from within the drying or tented area for accurate control of drying temperature • Heavy duty construction, durability & thermostat with 12’ cord and modular plug.

The Eliminator is NEC ® compliant using standard 15amp household breaker

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1-877-

Below are a few pictures showing ducting & a few “Focus” drying setups.

 

This is a small flood from a shower valve replacement. I used the Eliminator to pump hot air into the backside of shower after plumbing leak. I removed the baseboard and cut out the drywall below the caulk line. I setup this “focused” drying using cardboard and a few personal items to hold it against the wall. This is a 4’ x 15’ closet. I set my hi-temperature limit to 110F and put the probe in the cardboard as pictured above. I closed the door and with only 1 set of heating elements (less than 12 amps) the heat was reaching 110F. At 110F I had the heating elements set to cycle off and turn back on at 109F. 10 hours later I metered everything dry.

Use cardboard leaning against the wall to create a channel. Then pump hot air into the channel. This heats the wall fast and evaporates the moisture from the materials. Leave the ends open for some airflow. This was an adobe wall covered with plaster. 80F in the house and 148F being pumped into the channel using ¾ power.

Drying block walls poured solid with mortar.

Here we are using a prototype to dry an island cabinet that had a plumbing leak. Notice only 1 heating element is being used. 11.67 amps and 100F air is being pumped into island. This job dried overnight. Hole in bottom of cabinet flooring for plumbing allowed heated air to dry cabinet without removing any cabinet components.

 

Drying a wood floor by tenting and forcing 130F into the tenting. Only ¾ power was used for this and unit was cycling on and off because temperature probe is under the tenting controlling whatever heat setting you pick. When temperature is reached heating elements, not the fan, turn off. Then the heating elements turn back on when the temperature loses 1F. This keeps the temperature close to your desired setting.

Using plastic to “Focus” the heat on the wet materials. Because the Eliminator has the highest heat rise you can “Focus” heat better than any other system. This eliminates the need for ripping out building materials.

Using contained heat to dry concrete prior to flooring installation. Notice temperature probe going into the containment for accurate control.

 

Proper use of wall drying system when using heated containment area. Keep wall drying unit out of heat exceeding 95F. Hookup wall drying system as normal and create suction out of walls. Then vent back into heated containment and into HEPA unit. This keeps any unknowns in the wall cavities from spreading into the living area and helps draw heated air into wall cavities. Use HEPA unit to help with air movement (dual purpose use).

This is a small flood from a shower valve replacement. I used the Eliminator to pump hot air into the backside of shower after plumbing leak. I removed the baseboard and cut out the drywall below the caulk line. I setup this “focused” drying using cardboard and a few personal items to hold it against the wall. This is a 4’ x 15’ closet. I set my hi-temperature limit to 110F and put the probe in the cardboard as pictured above. I closed the door and with only 1 set of heating elements (less than 12 amps) the heat was reaching 110F. At 110F I had the heating elements set to cycle off and turn back on at 109F. 10 hours later I metered everything dry.

Use cardboard leaning against the wall to create a channel. Then pump hot air into the channel. This heats the wall fast and evaporates the moisture from the materials. Leave the ends open for some airflow. This was an adobe wall covered with plaster. 80F in the house and 148F being pumped into the channel using ¾ power.

Drying block walls poured solid with mortar.

Here we are using a prototype to dry an island cabinet that had a plumbing leak. Notice only 1 heating element is being used. 11.67 amps and 100F air is being pumped into island. This job dried overnight. Hole in bottom of cabinet flooring for plumbing allowed heated air to dry cabinet without removing any cabinet components.

Drying a wood floor by tenting and forcing 130F into the tenting. Only ¾ power was used for this and unit was cycling on and off because temperature probe is under the tenting controlling whatever heat setting you pick. When temperature is reached heating elements, not the fan, turn off. Then the heating elements turn back on when the temperature loses 1F. This keeps the temperature close to your desired setting.

Using plastic to “Focus” the heat on the wet materials. Because the Eliminator has the highest heat rise you can “Focus” heat better than any other system. This eliminates the need for ripping out building materials.

Using contained heat to dry concrete prior to flooring installation. Notice temperature probe going into the containment for accurate control.

Proper use of wall drying system when using heated containment area. Keep wall drying unit out of heat exceeding 95F. Hookup wall drying system as normal and create suction out of walls. Then vent back into heated containment and into HEPA unit. This keeps any unknowns in the wall cavities from spreading into the living area and helps draw heated air into wall cavities. Use HEPA unit to help with air movement (dual purpose use).

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